Bari
It is the chief town in Puglia, it is a pilgrimage destination for the followers of St. Nicola, the Patron Saint of the city, it is a mercantile and shipping centre, it is a combination of so many things, at times in sharp contradiction with each other, but it is definitely a city to be experienced calmly, to discover the delicious angles behind so much modern frenzy.
When you visit Bari, you just have to stop off at the ancient ‘Borgo' that until 1813 was the heart of the city centre: as you meander through its alleys, the squares and courtyards it will be like reliving history from the time of the ancient Romans, Catalan Byzantines, Arabic emirs, Norman commanders and the warrior crusaders and merchants of every possible nationality.
You have to take your time, to soak up all the suggestive and unique flavours; you will count an amazing 29 churches, and two of these will particularly arouse your curiosity: Bari, in fact, is perhaps the only city in the world to have two Cathedrals: the Episcopal Cathedral and the Basilica of St. Nicola. And one of the few to be protected by two patron saints: Sabino and Nicola.
You won’t help but notice, as you pass under the numerous archways in the ancient Borgo, the sacred alcoves which represent various Saints and Madonnas.
And talking about archways, they are so many of them and so many that have their own story to tell, such as the Meraviglia Archway (from the name of a family who originated in Milan and owned many houses in this area): the legend tells that it got its name from the fact that it was built incredibly quickly, in just one night, to allow two lovers to meet.
Walking through the alleys, among freshly washed sheets hung out to dry, the echoing from one balcony to another, of a strange dialect which is a mix of Latin, Greek, Arab, Spanish, French and German, and the marvellous aroma of the “brasciole” - braised horse meat - will remind you that this is just the start of what will be a most splendid morning!
Look out for the trays in the doorways of the houses with their doors open onto the road: they are full of ‘orecchiette’ pasta which is drying whilst waiting for a buyer.
Perfumes, sounds, colours like that of the sea that is highlighted on the horizon of the ancient walls, built to defend the churches, castles, cathedrals, monuments and ancient civilization remains.
It is so easy to take a step back into history: a road, a traffic light and you will find yourself back in the Borgo which was planned by Gioacchino Murat, and hence called Borgo Murattiano, it is based on the typical chessboard design so often found in Europe in the 1800’s, and was full of wonderful houses and merchant trading areas.
You will also find signs of more recent history of this city: the Petruzzelli Theatre, behind which are “hidden” the marvellous Aqueduct Palace, the Margherita Theatre, and the Piccinni Theatre.
Between one block and another there are so many unique examples of hidden architecture practically concealed away; for instance? Palazzo Fizzarotti, on the central Corso Vittorio Emanuele, inspired by the unmistakable style of the Venetian palaces.
The ancient and modern binomial can also be seen with the Russian Church and its green roofs and the tall bell tower with a bulb dome, and with the St. Nicola Stadium, one of the most beautiful stadiums in the world designed by an internationally renowned designer Renzo Piano.
The city of Bari offers a wide variety of ways to relax,: museums and exhibition halls, all types of shops, famous restaurants and coffee bars, bookstores, fairs and during the summer season, it has a wonderful beach, ideal for a few hours in the sun.
One last tip..! Don't miss the amazing walk along the city’s waterfront, possibly at sunset … among the fishermen's boats which have returned to the harbour, the fish market stands, the fort that stands high above the walls…
Bari will remain impressed in your heart and mind forever!
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It is the chief town in Puglia, it is a pilgrimage destination for the followers of St. Nicola, the Patron Saint of the city, it is a mercantile and shipping centre, it is a combination of so many things, at times in sharp contradiction with each other, but it is definitely a city to be experienced calmly, to discover the delicious angles behind so much modern frenzy.
